Ethiopia is the only country in Africa never to have been fully colonised (with the exception of a five-year occupation by Mussolini’s Italy). The 20th-century history of Ethiopia is dominated by the figure of Haile Selassie, who became emperor in 1930 and ruled until the military coup of 1974. The country was occupied by the Italians between 1936 and 1941.

In 1977, a further coup brought Lieutenant Colonel Mengistu to power. Agricultural backwardness was the country’s most urgent problem; all attempts at land reform were resisted. The government itself was perhaps too preoccupied with fighting secessionist movements in Tigray and Eritrea, and with occasional border clashes with Somalia (one of which escalated into full-scale war during 1977). This, along with severe drought, economic mismanagement and the mutual mistrust between the government and Western aid agencies contributed to the widespread and heavily-publicised 1983 famine. The civil war continued until May 1991, when President Mengistu fled the country for Zimbabwe.

In June 2001, after 10 separate attempts, the UN finally managed to broker a settlement between Ethiopia and Eritrea. A 4,000-strong peacekeeping force, UNMEE, holds the line between the two sides, but a final resolution of the conflict seems as distant as ever. This was a war that neither side could afford. Ethiopia has been in need of food aid for some years and distribution to the most needy and remote areas was disrupted by the fighting. Large imports of emergency aid were needed during the summer of 2003 to prevent a famine which might otherwise have affected up to 15 million people. In 2005, contested general elections led to more social unrest.

Ethiopia can claim some of the highest and most stunning places on the African continent, such as the jaggedly carved Simien Mountains, and some of the lowest, such as the Danakil Depression, with its sulphur fumaroles and lunar-like landscape. Before travelling however, it is recommended that visitors check the latest travel advice.

1,133,380 sq km (437,600 sq miles).

74.8 million (2006).

65.9 per sq km.

Addis Ababa. Population: 2.7 million (2003).

Federal Republic.

Amharic is the official language, although about 80 other native tongues are spoken including Oromo, Somali and Tigrinya. English and Arabic are widely used and some Italian and French is spoken.

Ethiopian Orthodox (Tewahido) and Coptic Church, mainly in the north, 40%; Islam, mainly in the east and south, 40%. There are also significant animist, Evangelical, Protestant and Roman Catholic communities.

GMT + 3.

Casual wear is suitable for most places, but Ethiopians tend to be fairly formal and conservative in their dress. Private informal entertaining is very common. Most religious houses are not open to women.

Photography: In the smaller towns the locals may expect a small payment in return for being photographed. Video photography in famous tourist attractions occasionally carries a small charge. Photography may be prohibited in airports and near military camps.

220 volts AC, 50Hz.

Prime Minister Meles Zenawi since 1995.

President Woldegiorgis Girma since 2001.