For so long off the tourist trail, visitors began to return to Cambodia in the late 1980s, but were restricted to the capital, Phnom Penh, and a few of the temples of Angkor near Siem Reap. It would be many years before the whole of the country was safe to travel around. In 1999, the remaining Khmer Rouge troops defected to the government side.

The temples of Angkor literally rise out of the jungle and are a magnet for visitors to Cambodia. Angkor Wat is the largest and most famous of the temples, and visitors could easily spend a week exploring the hundreds of other exquisite structures. Phnom Penh is a bustling city, often overshadowed by glamorous Angkor. It is a city of contrasts with fine colonial architecture side by side with ramshackle streets. 

Elsewhere, few visitors take the time to discover the hill tribes around Banlung, the unspoilt countryside around sleepy Sen Monorom and the charming riverine town of Battambang with its faded colonial architecture. Those looking for relaxation make their way to Sihanoukville with its lovely sandy beaches and laid-back lifestyle. 

With the road network little by little improving, so much more of this delightful country is open to visitors who take the time to discover the Cambodia beyond the temples.

181,035 sq km (69,900 sq miles).

14.8 million (UN estimate 2005).

81.7 per sq km.

Phnom Penh. Population: 1.17 million (2005).

Constitutional monarchy since 1993.

Khmer is the official language and spoken by 95% of the population. Chinese and Vietnamese are also spoken. French was widely spoken until the arrival of the Pol Pot regime and is still taught in schools, but English is now a more popular language to learn among the younger generation.

95% Buddhist (Theravada), the remainder Muslim and Christian. Buddhism was reinstated as the national religion in 1989 after a ban on religious activity in 1975.

GMT + 7.

Sensitivity to politically-related subjects in conversation is advisable. Avoid pointing your foot at a person or touching someone on the head. Women should keep their shoulders covered and not wear shorts when visiting pagodas.

Photography: Permitted, with certain restrictions, such as the photographing of military installations, airports and railway stations. It is polite to ask permission before photographing Cambodian people, especially monks.

220 volts AC, 50Hz. Two-pin plugs are in use. Power cuts are frequent.

Prime Minister Hun Sen since 1998.

King Norodom Sihamoni since 2004.