The islands of the Indonesian archipelago are strung like beads across the equator. Clear blue seas lap pristine beaches, gentle breezes carry scents of spices and flowers, and divers are entranced by the ocean’s riches. Inland, dramatic volcanic ranges tower above a green mantle of terraced hillsides and lush rainforest.

Bali offers an image of paradise: stunning scenery, gentle sarong-clad people and sunsets of legendary glory. On peaceful Lombok, life moves at a slower pace, while bustling Jakarta exhibits Indonesia’s cosmopolitan, modern face. Komodo Island’s ‘living dinosaurs’ and the entrancing ‘sea gardens’ of Suwalesi invite exploration, as do Borobudur’s architectural treasures, which include 5km (3 miles) of Buddhist relief carvings. Adventure-seekers head for Kalimantan’s remote jungle interior or explore Sumatra, with its teeming wildlife and wealth of tribal groups.

Yet these fabled isles of sunshine and spices have long been stalked by security issues, fired up by governmental corruption. The powerful Indonesian Communist Party (PKI) almost won a coup in 1965, but was defeated by an army led by General Suharto, wielding Western support. Between 400,000 and 1 million were massacred by that army in the aftermath of the coup. Sukarno, politically crippled, was replaced by Suharto, who remained president until his (forced) resignation in May 1998. Under the Suharto government, the army always held ultimate political power while a technocrat class was left to run the country day-to-day.

Since then, militant Islam has been threatening to tear the archipelago apart. Examples of inter-fighting include the Moluccan Islands, one of the few parts of Indonesia with a majority Christian population: since the beginning of 1999, they have been engaged in an increasingly violent struggle with Muslim militants that has claimed thousands of lives. Suicide bombing has occurred in Bali, most recently on 1 October 2005, and there remains a high threat from terrorism in Indonesia. The cataclysmic tsunami that occurred on 26 December 2004 further hampered Indonesia’s economic and touristic progress.

However, from such a devastating tsunami also came a much-needed glimmer of hope: a peace agreement with separatist rebels was reached just as 2006 dawned, resulting in the withdrawal of state security forces from the Aceh province. In return, Free Aceh Movement rebels began disarmament and vowed to abolish their armed wing. Such withdrawal effectively ended a 29-year conflict that had claimed thousands upon thousands of lives.

However, until such a catalogue of problems are fully resolved, many tourists will be deterred from travelling to Indonesia and will therefore miss out on its myriad marvels; and many of its residents will remain living amidst poverty, corruption and peril.

Lucy Moss

1,922,570 million sq km (742,308 sq miles).

245 million (CIA estimate 2006).

127 per sq km.

Jakarta (Java). Population: 13.2 million (UN estimate 2005).

Republic. Declared independence from The Netherlands in 1945.

Bahasa Indonesia is the official national language. Altogether, there are an estimated 583 languages and dialects spoken in the archipelago. The older generation still speaks Dutch as a second language.

There is a Muslim majority of approximately 90%, with Christian, Hindu (mainly in Bali) and Buddhist minorities.

GMT + 7 (West) in Sumatra, Java and Western Borneo; GMT + 8 (Central) in Sulawesi, Lesser Sunda Islands, Bali and Eastern Borneo; GMT + 9 (East) in Papua and Maluku.

Since independence, many people have developed a strong sense of national pride, and maintain traditions of dance, painting, woodcarving and stonecarving. Social courtesies are often fairly formal. In particular, when drink or food is served, it should not be touched until the host invites the guest to do so. Never pass or accept anything with the left hand. Public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon and kissing in public will attract a great deal of unwanted attention. Touching a stranger of the same sex while in conversation is very common. Pointing is considered impolite and patting children on the head should be avoided. Indonesians are polite and will extend endless courtesies to visitors whom they trust and like. Smiling is a cultural tradition and Indonesians smile frequently, even in an uncomfortable or difficult situation. Visitors should avoid losing their temper. When invited to a home, a gift is appreciated (as long as it is given with the right hand). Informality is normal, but a few smart establishments encourage guests to dress for dinner. Muslim customs, especially those concerning female clothes, should be observed.

127/230 volts AC, 50Hz. Plugs used are European-style with two circular metal pins and British-style with two flat blades and one flat grounding blade.

President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono since 2004.