Antiquity is at the heart of Guatemala: the country incorporates some of the most spectacular Mayan archaeological sites and the pineforested hills of the highlands are home to Mayan communities that still wear their traditional weavings. Guatemala has around 21 different ethnic groups, speaking some 23 languages.

The staggering Mayan monuments alert the visitor to a mystery that hangs in the air: the Mayans were dominant through much of Central America from the fifth until the eighth centuries, when their civilisation rapidly declined and a variety of other ethnic groups moved into the region.

Guatemala was one of the territories overrun by the Spanish conquistador Cortés in the 17th century. Pressure on their empire during the early 19th century forced the Spanish to concede independence to their American colonies, principally Mexico, into which Guatemala was briefly incorporated in 1822. Guatemala then enjoyed comparative stability under a series of dictators who were content to keep the country under a quasi-feudal regime.

Eventually, the country slid into almost perpetual civil war between a series of right-wing military governments and various leftist guerrilla movements: a major figure during this period was the former general Efrain Rios Montt, who as army chief of staff and (briefly) president during the 1970s and 80s, presided over a vicious counter-insurgency campaign whose savagery was exceptional.

Even Guatemala’s cities have been subject to cataclysm. Three attempts to establish a capital were made before Guatemala City was founded in 1775. The first colonial settlement was built in 1524 but continuing battles with Cakchiquel warriors necessitated relocation in 1527 near present-day San Miguel Escobar. An earthquake destroyed this in 1541. A third capital was then established on the present site of Antigua Guatemala and survived until 1773, when it was hit by a huge earthquake and eventually abandoned. The former capital was thereafter known as Antigua Guatemala, or Old Guatemala.

But nature has also formed some astonishing sights, such as volcanic peaks, subtropical forests and ancient, sulphurous lakes. Orchids spring out of soil, exotic creatures roam it, and colourful birds soar above it. And equally, just as Guatemala’s human history contains some savage chapters, a visitor is still frequently greeted by sincere friendliness. The indigenous Guatemalan culture also persists, and those thinking that the Mayans were totally eradicated centuries ago may be surprised to bump into a few on their travels – they constitute almost half the population.

108,889 sq km (42,042 sq miles).

13 million (UN estimate 2005).

119.4 per sq km.

Guatemala City. Population: 942,348 (2002).

Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1821.

The official language is Spanish. There are also 22 indigenous languages.

About 60% of the population are Catholic. Most of the remaining population are Protestant. Some indigenous communities hold services combining Catholicism with pre-Columbian rites.

GMT - 6.

Guatemala is the most populated of the Central American republics and is the only one which is predominantly Indian, although the Spanish have had a strong influence on the way of life. Full names should be used when addressing acquaintances, particularly in business. Dress is conservative and casual wear is suitable except in the smartest dining rooms and clubs.

Photography: Locals are often suspicious of foreigners taking photographs, particularly of young children. Before approaching children for photos, or even just to talk to them, you should check with an an adult that this is acceptable. However, if you are in any doubt, refrain from doing so. You may be asked to pay a small amount of money to take photographs of both children and adults.

115-125 volts AC, 60Hz. There are some regional variations. Plugs are the flat two-pin American type.

President Oscar Berger Perdomo since 2004.