Cuba swings to a different rhythm, and at first it can be hard to get the beat. Opinions are divided on the effect of Castro, 40 years of US blockade and the collapse of the Soviet Union. They have health care, education, food and work but Cubans are still not free to say what they think.

Fortunately, the country has undergone a transformation since it opened its doors to global tourism in the 1990s. Staying at a casa particular (a private home with rooms to rent) gives the traveller a glimpse of life for the average Cubano, and opens up parts of the country that were once inaccessible or off-limits. It also frees up more money to enjoy the raucous nightlife that made Havana famous.

The country’s heritage is in safe hands. Historic Havana and Trinidad, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, have undergone painstaking restoration and preservation. Walking around them is like a trip back in time.

The concept of ‘ecotourism’ is catching on here, and in this respect, the blockade has helped. Cuba has not suffered a half century of reckless expansion along its beautiful coastline, and there are countless pristine beaches waiting to be explored.

110,860 sq km (42,803 sq miles).

11.3 million (UN estimate 2005).

102 per sq km.

Havana. Population: 2.2 million (2006).

Socialist Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1898.

The official language is Spanish.

Roman Catholic majority. There are also minority Afro-Cuban religions.

GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October.)

A handshake is the normal form of greeting. Cubans generally address each other as compañero, but visitors should use señor or señora. Some Cubans have two surnames after their Christian name and the first surname is the correct one to use. Normal courtesies should be observed when visiting someone’s home and a small gift may be given if invited for a meal. Cuban men rarely wear shorts away from the beach. Visitors doing so are not frowned upon, but they may receive the odd sideways glance. Women should cover their legs and shoulders if visiting churches. Cuban women tend to dress up for evenings out. 

110/230 volts AC, 60Hz. American-style flat two-pin plugs are generally used, except in certain large hotels where the European round two-pin plug is standard.

Fidel Castro Ruz, premier 1959-76, president since 1976. Acting Head of State: Raul Castro since 2006.